Occupying
117 islands in the azure waters of the Adriatic, this
lagoon city is a watery maze of grand canals, 177 smaller
canals, over 400 bridges and the world's most famous
sandbar, the Lido. Though thoroughly walkable, getting
around Venice is a mesmerizing experience aboard the
city's variety of public transport boats, the vaporetti
or smaller (and more expensive) motoscafi. The very
expensive gondola ride is suggested more for a romantic
interlude .
Venice's enticing, exotic beauty, typified by the Byzantine
architecture , enormous stained glass windows rising
along the Grand Canal andVenetian Carnival masks with
their wry, knowing smiles - attest to the city's historic
role as a great Eastern trader. Venice's legendary maritime
heroes, such as Marco Polo, ploughed the Levantine trading
routes. The entire Mediterranean flowed through the
Venetian Republic, adorning the city in the splendors
that illuminate it today.
Modern pleasures are not absent in Venice. Year round,
first-rate art exhibitions pass through the city's ode
to modernism - the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Before the
unfortunate fire that closed (with plans to rebuild)
the Fenice Des Artiste Opera House, this venue was a
must stop for the likes of Pavorotti and Placido Domingo.
And the city's 70,000 inhabitants do much more than
meditate upon the glories of Venice's past - you'll
no doubt see them sitting beside you at the Cafe Florian,
on San Marco Square, or selling leather goods, hand
blown, Murano glass and Armani ties at the city's many
fashionable boutiques.
City
Areas
Venice is divided into six
districts, known as 'Sestieri'. Each 'Sestiere' is subdivided
into Parishes, the smallest administrative and social
units of the city as early as the 11C (there were 70
then). They were reduced in number during the Napoleonic
occupation, when religious orders were suppressed and
churches and monasteries were demolished. Nevertheless,
today there there are still over a hundred religious
buildings distribuited over the 38 Parishes. Note that
the numbering of the houses does not necessarily follow
the streets, but is according to the 'Sestiere' (hence
the hihg numbers).
Cannaregio:
Cannaregio is Venice's second
largest sestiere, stretching across the north-west of
the city from the station almost to the Rialto bridge.
The name has two possible origins: it may derive from
Canal Regio, i.e. the main canal for communicating with
the mainland or else it may refer to the extensive reed
beds found there in the past. Cannaregio was settled
well before AD 1000, when the first dwellings were built
on the islands of San Giovanni Crisostomo and Santi
Apostoli, close to the Rialto. The areas adjacent to
the Grand Canal were built up next. The urban sprawl
proceeded northwards, engulfing the convents and monasteries
(the Misericordia, the Madonna dell'Orto, the Servi,
San'Alvise) on what were, until then, remote islands.
With the construction of the railway and road bridges
to the mainland in the 19th century, the mainly residential
and religious nature of the sestiere changed. But the
sestiere contains treasures in its own right.
On this sestiere, special
attention will be paed to number of palaces, dating
from Byzantine period to the 18C, that are to be found
in this sestiere together with the large 16C quarter
of the Ghetto, and the churches and monasteries, which
are numerous in this area too. We shall also encounter
another of Venice's major town-planning schemes, the
Strada Nuova, linking the city centre around Rialto
with the railway station.
Santa
Croce:
Santa Croce is in the north-east
of the city and via Piazzale Roma it connects Venice
to the mainland. All this area has been subject to many
demolitions and transformations, starting in 1810 with
the demolition of the church and monastery of Santa
Croce, which gave their name to the district. The Papadopuli
gardens were laid out in the area. The gardens were
designed by bagnara in the likeness of English gardens.
They are now open to the public but have been completely
changed..
It extend over the southern
part of the city, starting with Punta della Dogana that
juts out into the San Marco basin like prow of a ship.
The 'dogana da mar' (sea customs house) of the Venetian
Republic was built in the seventeenth century and consists
of many warehouses that are hidden behind the facade.
It end with the square tower on top of which there are
bronze statues that support the golden ball on which
Fortune stands. The work is by Bernardo Falcone.
After the tower we find the beginning of the Zattere.
This is a long jetty that goes as far as Santa Maria.
It was built in 1516 to unload the timber which rafts
(zattere) brought down the rivers from the Cadore area.
Along the Zattere we find the old Ospedale degli Incurabili.
This was built by the Venetian Republic in the sixteenth
century to house those suffering from chronic infections
illnesses in one wing whilst the other wing housed orphans.
The Napoleonic edicts of 1806 turned the building over
to the military
Dorsoduro:
Dorsoduro, the name of which
(literally 'hard ridge') probably reflects the nature
of the land in this area, slightly higher and more solid
than the other portions of land that emerged from the
lagoon. the old designation is still visible on the
outside wall of the monastery next to the church of
the Vistazione at the Zattere. Here, in an inscription
placed above the hole in the wall where public denouncements
could be 'posted', it is possible to read the words
'Osso Duro'. Today it is one of the most sought-after
areas of the city and is especially popular with foreigners.
It extend over the southern
part of the city, starting with Punta della Dogana that
juts out into the San Marco basin like prow of a ship.
The 'dogana da mar' (sea customs house) of the Venetian
Republic was built in the seventeenth century and consists
of many warehouses that are hidden behind the facade.
It end with the square tower on top of which there are
bronze statues that support the golden ball on which
Fortune stands. The work is by Bernardo Falcone. After
the tower we find the beginning of the Zattere.
This is a long jetty that goes as far as Santa Maria.
It was built in 1516 to unload the timber which rafts
(zattere) brought down the rivers from the Cadore area.
Along the Zattere we find the old Ospedale degli Incurabili.
This was built by the Venetian Republic in the sixteenth
century to house those suffering from chronic infections
illnesses in one wing whilst the other wing housed orphans.
The Napoleonic edicts of 1806 turned the building over
to the military.
Not to be missed
Chiesa di San Trovaso
Chiesa di San Sebastiano
Ca' Rezzonico (The Museum of 18th-C. Venice)
Guggenheim Collection
Galleria dell'Accademia
Galleria Cini
Santa Maria della Salute
Chiesa dei Gesuati
Scuola Grande dei Carmini
Palazzo Ariani
Palazzo Zenobio
San
Polo
San Polo is the smallest
area. In this district it was customery to 'live over
the shop', i.e. dwellings and workplaces were often
combined.
On the Rialto and everywhere else we find an old and
noble Venetian vocation: that of good fare. The enjoyment
of food is honoured here, even in its most simple and
popular forms. And this enjoyment of food goes hand
in hand with another Venetian tradition: conviviality.
All around the Venice region we find "osterie e
bacari", taverns that also provide ready-made dishes
including saòr, bigoi in salsa, tripe, liver
alla veneziana, fish fries, as well as the typical "cicheto"
(a morsel on a stick).
This sestiere runs to the east of the Rio di San Polo
to tha Rialto.
San Polo has been the liveliest
quarter of venice since the 11th century when it became
the centre for the city's markets, when the market was
moved here from Campo San Bartolomeo. The present layout
of the market and adjacent buildings is the result of
an overall reconstruction projet by Scarpagnino after
a fire in 1514, which destroyed the whole area.
At the foot of the Rialto Bridge, where the tourist
stalls are thick on the ground, stands - to the left
- the Palazzo dei Dieci Savi, which housed the city's
tax-inspectors, and - to the right - the Palazzo dei
Camerlenghi, which housed the finance department. Beyond,
the small church of San Giacomo di Rialto (known affectionately
as San Giacometto) is generally agreed to be the first
of the city's churches, tradition has it that it was
founded in AD 421.
All around it stretch the
markets, around which commercial and administrative
buildings and areas of low-cost housing for the traders
mushroomed after trade was shifted from the other side
of the canal.
The larger streets and squares are named after the merchandise
that is still sold there (Naranzeria - oranges; Casaria
- cheese; Speziali - spices; Erberia - vegetables).
Not to be missed
Rialto Bridge
San Giacomo di Rialto
Palazzo dei Camerlenghi
Fabbriche Nuove
Chiesa di San Cassiano
Chiesa di Sant'Aponal
Campo San Polo
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista
San
Marco
This sestiere is the heart
of the city. But its sights are not confined to Piazza
San Marco itself. Three mail thoroughfares link the
key points of San Marco, forning a rough triangle: one
from Piazza San Marco to the Rialto Bridge, one from
the Rialto to the Accademia Bridge, and one from the
Accademia to Piazza San Marco. Even in this busiest
of 'sestieri', it is possible to stray into the centre
of the triangle and feel as if you are off the beaten
track.
from Piazza S. Marco
to the Rialto Bridge
The 'drawing room of Europe', as Napoleon described
Piazza San Marco, is the focus of venetian life. The
elegant piazza is lined with historical cafés,
where you'll have the most expensive cup of coffee in
the city, but it will be well worth it.
Byzantine rubs shoulders
with Gothic, Roman Classical, late Renaissance; it covers
1000 years of Venetian history. The vertically challenged
emperor ontended to add to the furnishings of this open
air drawing room with a statue of himself in the centre
of the western wing. It was never erected: the Venetians
have always kept the square clear of public monuments
and statues. This is typical of Venice, where history
is always communal rather then personal.
Piazza San Marco is linked to the Rialto by the busiest,
richest and narrowest of shopping streets: the Mercerie.
The name is plural, since it is divided into five parts:
the Merceria dell'Orologio, di San Zulian, del Capitello,
di San Salvador and 'del 2 Aprile'. The name means "haberdashers",
but we knowfrom John Evelyn's 1645 account of 'one of
the most delicious streets in the world' that the luxury
textile emporia were flanked by shops selling perfumes
and medicines too.
Not to be missed
Palazzo Ducale (Doge's Palace)
Basilica di San Marco (Saint Mark's Basilica)
Piazza San Marco (Saint Mark's Square)
Torre dell'Orologio (Clocktower)
Museo Archeologico (Archaelogical Museum)
Biblioteca Marciana/Libreria Sansoviniana
Museo Correr (Correr Museum)
La Zecca
from the Rialto to the Accademia Bridge
The route from the Rialto
to the Accademia passes through a series of ever larger
squares. from cosily cramped Campo San Bartolomeo, the
well marked path leads to Campo San Luca with its bars
and cakeshops. Beyond this is Campo Manin, leader of
the 1848 uprising against the Austrians. An alley to
left of this campo will lead you to the Scala del Bovolo,
a striking Renaissance spiral staircase. Back on the
main drag, the busy Calle della Mendola takes you into
broad Campo Sant'Angelo with its dramatic view of Santo
Stefano's leaning tower; off Calle della Mendola to
the right is the gothic Palazzo Fortuny, once home to
the fashion designer Mariano Fortuny.
Just before the Accademia Bridge, Campo Santo Stefano
is second only to Piazza San Marco in the sestiere size.
On the Grand Canal to the north-west of Campo Santo
Stefano is Campo San Samuele, with a deconsacrated 11th
century church and the vast Palazzo Grassi, now an exhibition
centre.
from the Accademia
to Piazza San Marco
The route from Santo Stefano
back to Piazza San Marco zigzags at first, passing through
small squares, including Campo Santa Maria del Giglio
(aka Santa Maria Zobenigo) with the most boastful church-facade
in Venice. It winds past banks and hotels, along with
a few top-dollar antique shops, to end in wide Via XXII
Marzo, with an intimidating view of freshly restored
baroque statuary of San Moisè. To the left from
here are the gutted remains of Venice's once-glorious
opera house, La Fenice. Press on and you are ready for
the greatest view in the world: Piazza San Marco from
the west side.
Castello:
Castello is Venice's largest
sestiere, extending from the Rialto to Sant'Elena at
eastern trip of the city. Its name is believed to derive
from a fortress on the island of San Pietro, one of
the earliest inhabited sites in the lagoon. A sestiere
of two very different halves, Castello's grander northern
and western area, around Santi Giovanni e Paolo and
San Zaccaria, was closely linked with the centres of
power, while the districts around the Arsenale to the
east were home to Venice's most important industries.
This was one of the earliest parts of Venice to be sttled
(5th to 6th centuries).
Northern part:
The Bridge of Sighs marks the border between the sestieri
of San marco and Castello, so the quaint Museo Diocesano
di Arte Sacra and stately San Zaccaria although closely
associated with San marco, actually belong to Castello.
But the true heart of northern adn western Castello
lies inward from here: campo Santa Maria Formosa ('Shapely
St Mary'), a large, bustling, irregular-shaped square
on the road to just about everywhere. It has a fine
church, a small market,a couple of bars and an undertaker's.
Nearby is the quintessentially Venetian museum-cum-library
of the Querini-Stampalia. Constantly buzzing with both
Venetians and tourists, the square is surrounded by
palazzi that range in style from the very grand to the
very homely.It is, in fact, Castello in miniature.
For grandeur, head north-east from here towards campo
Santi Giovanni e Paolo. This square is second only to
Piazza San Marco in monumental magnificence.
Not to be missed
Monument to Bartolomeo Colleoni
Museo Querini-Stampalia
Museo Diocesano di Arte Sacra
San Francesco della Vigna
Santa Maria Formosa
Santi Giovanni e Paolo (San Zanipolo)
San Zaccaria
Scuola Grande di San Marco
Southern part:
If Venice's fair-tale charm
is getting too much, head for eastern Castello. The
low-rise, close-clustered buildings of this working-class
area housed the employees of the Arsenale (Venice's
Docklands) most of which now lies poignantly derelict.
Eastern Castello had its foreing communities, as local
churches testify. There's San Giorgio dei Greci, with
its adjoining museum of icons, and Scuola di San Giorgio
degli Schiavoni, with its captivating cycle of paintings
by Vittorio Carpaccio. Indeed, the great promenade along
the lagoon (the Riva degli Schiavoni) was named after
the same community.
Inland from the Riva is the quaint Gothic church of
San Giovanni in Bragora and, further back in the warren
of streets, the curch of Sant'Antonin.
Back on the Riva degli Schiavoni is the church of La
Pietà, where Vivaldi was choir master; it is
now frequently used for concerts. |